Finally got round to putting the Teamgee H3 unit on to the 121c Aileron deck and boy does it look good.
I really like this 31″carbon-fiber deck (it is one of my favorites), which has a nice concave top and big aggressive kick-tail. It feels more like a rigid downhill board but still carves really nicely.
Although the H3 unit is slow uphills (single low power motor) it is still surprisingly fun on flat ground carving under power. This is the same deck that is being used on the new Arc Board Aileron, with the Arc Board fusion drive; which should make for one hell of a board – I am looking forward to testing one.
Fitting the H3 was easy, as it is meant to be. I used two half-risers (a riser bad cut in half) to cover a gap between the rear of the motor unit and the foam on the front of the unit.
I have been enjoying the H3 on the 32″ Hecs deck, more than I expected and, apart from testing the Boosted with the new big Boa wheels (see the previous post), it is all I have used in the last month.
What makes it fun is the combination of short deck, silent easy push hub-motor, and smooth power controls. The cheap H3 remote is a little too sensitive for my liking, especially on braking, but liveable with. In the end, I picked up another H6 remote and paired that with the H3. The H6 remote is a significant improvement and, given it is relatively inexpensive I highly recommend upgrading to it. The wheel control on the H6 is just better and more progressive than the thumb lever on the H6; breaking is just more controlled and IMO safer.
I love the BB with its flexy deck, belt drive and soft wheels for going anywhere, and not worrying too much about bad roads and pavements, but for quick hooning around on nice roads and pavements, nipping to the shop, the short deck and H3 combination is great and always makes me smile as I find myself carving like salmon heading upstream, way more than I can do on the BB.
Before the good points, lets get the negatives out of the way:
The H3 remote control is basic and cheap (get the H6 remote) and has a potentially dangerous forward/reverse button prominent on the remote (the H6 is less prominent and less prone to accidental pressing).
The single motor top-speed is not powerful enough, it accelerates OK and tops out around 15mpg, but the big issue is that it really struggles to get up steep hills and cannot even sustain its average speed on moderate ones.
The good points:
It is inexpensive.
It is well made (for the cost) and uses the well-made trucks from the H6.
The power control is smooth and progressive; an easy e-skate to get confident on quickly. No disconnects or connection issues.
It is easy to fit (see link).
There is minimal resistance (this is just a single hub-motor), so pushing off, using it like a conventional longboard is easy, you can even pump it if you want.
In summary: easy to fit, just works, but struggles with hills.
The range I have been getting from the 2200mah battery is just over 6 miles when out easy cruising and occasionally hitting the 15mph top speed (for the record I am 185lb/84kg). Charging time from empty is roughly 1.5 hours.
Like the H6, the H3 remote has a hard-switch two-setting speed limiter which works well with my 8-year-old and restricting his top speed.
Regarding the price, my unit is an advanced one (paid for with my own money) but Teamgee has not put this up for general sale, so I don’t know the official cost. If it was me, looking at the alternatives, I would happily pay $250-300 for this unit.
Final word, I have ordered an exotic 31″ 121c Aileron carbon-fiber deck (19″/48cm wheelbase) for it to live on longer term. If Teamgee bring out a more powerful drive version, I will get it.
Nice one Teamgee.
(just redesign your remote and that forward/reverse button and stick a more powerful motor on it).
the king-pin is restrcited from dropping down due to the motor-cables.
holes punched through the gip-tape to access the truck bolt heads
I made a number of changes to the Teamgee H3 and H6 e-skates. First off was new bushings on both boards – a mixture of Venom SHR 91a barrels and Thunder 90a cones. The stock Teamgee bushings are the usual cheap budget bushings and not great on quick and progressive rebound. Changing the H3 bushings is straightforward, but the rear board-side bushings on the H6 is a little tricky to swap-out. On the rear of the H6, the hub-motor cables limit’s the movement of the hanger and how far down the kingpin nut can drop, so that the board-side bushing cannot be removed.
The only way to move the hanger enough to remove the board-side bushing is to unfasten the truck baseplate, but this requires an allen-key turning the heads of the truck bolts, which can only be done by punching a hole through the grip-tape, so not great if you want a perfect grip-tape look.
In addition, I picked up another H6 controller and paired that with the H3. The basic H3 controller is OK, but the H6 wheel has a nicer movement and feel in the hand.
The H3 remote controller (let) and the H6 one (right) that has replaced it.
Finally, replacement polyurethane wraps for the hub-motors arrived – not needed right now, the current ones are lasting OK, but just forward thinking and a bit of fun to put red on the H6 motots.
Comparison of how thin even a 90mm hub-motor wrap is, compared to a standard wheel – it is not hard to understand why there is more vibration from hub-motor boars.
I really like our Teamgee H6 and H3, but both remotes have a feature that has now caused me to spill twice (thankfully only minor grazes).
Both the H6 and H3 remotes have a ‘SHIFT’ button for switching between forward & reverse. If this button is accidentally/unknowingly pressed and you just push off (I always push off instinctively, being a long-time border) and then bring in the power to continue riding, when the button has been pressed into reverse, the board shoots backward and you fly off.
This happened once when the remote had been in my pocket and another time when my 8-year-old thought it would be a laugh to give the board back to me in reverse (lesson learned). I now ALWAYS test the direction of the board first before setting off, which I recommend others do.
I have passed my comment on to Teamgee and, as usual, they responded quickly (I have found them very good to communicate with), and said they will look into the design.
As said, I really like the boards and would happily buy another – it is just if you have a current model, or an H9 on order, check before setting off (especially if you have an 8-year-old with an evil sense of humor!).
Finally got to mount the H3 unit (this is an advance/pilot unit) to our 32″ custom made Hecs Deck. It took longer than I thought because I lost the remote, which has now thankfully turned up.
Fitting the unit was relatively easy; I used one 2.5mm riser pad and half of another to build up the gap the trucks had with my deck curving quickly away for the kick-tail.
Riser pads installe
Gap from the curve of the deck for the kick-tail
This is effectively a slightly smaller battery (2200mah) and single motor version of the H6 – it rides virtually the same, with nice progressive control, sharp braking (be careful) and the odd reverse button.
The Teamgee H3 finally arrived today – finally, once again UPS took their time and got the delivery wrong (why are you so bad UPS?).
This is a low-cost unit (more on pricing to come, as this is not yet officially sold in Europe right now) – and for the record, I paid for this with my own money. Bit of information on it: 85 cm wheels, 2200mah battery, single hub-motor (left-side drive). Published specs: 12km range and 25 km top – not as far, or as quick, as the H6 (and certainly not a competitor to Mellow), but then it is significantly cheaper than the H6 and I suspect aimed at a different customer and market.
The motor unit (battery, truck and motor) comes with: screws for mounting, remote, charger, front truck and wheels and T-tool. The remote, pictured above, is the cheaper and simpler remote (compared to the H6 unit). Speed and Power switches on the side, the usual thumb-lever (with click4cruise) and the quirky shift button to reverse the board.
The plan was to temporarily fit this to our 32″ Hecs Decks custom Fish, even though it would cover a good part of the wood-burning artwork I did on the board, however, it really needs a riser pad for the trucks, so that the battery unit mounts flush to the deck.
Gap from the curve of the deck for the kick-tail
A bit of a pain to not have it immediately up and running, but easy to fix – riser pad on order… full review to come.